Building a Semi-Elliptical Silver-Leaf Table

Today, I start an ambitious project—building a semi-elliptical table with a silver-leaf gilded top, supported by elegantly curved legs. The process was meticulous, blending wood and artistic metal finishing techniques. Here’s how I brought this piece to life in my Colorado furniture design studio.

Starting with the Tabletop

I began by cutting a plywood center panel, opting for plywood over solid wood to prevent expansion issues that can occur during humidity changes. Using an elliptical router jig (which I’ve covered in a previous video), I routed the outer ring first, followed by the exact shape of the silver-leaf section. Since an ellipse isn’t a perfect circle, each segment had to be cut at unique angles and lengths to maintain the curve. After test-fitting and adjusting, I glued the pieces together with floating tenons and taped them together for alignment while the glue dried.

To ensure a tight fit between the outer template and the inner circle, I recalibrated my router table with a collar, matching the original bit’s diameter. A bit of math and careful routing later, the fit was snug. For the back edge, I added a mahogany band, using a spring joint technique—planing a slight bow in the wood so clamping pressure would distribute evenly.

Shaping the Table Apron

Next, I created a bending form to shape the apron in the same elliptical curve as the tabletop, but set back about ¾ inch to add a reveal between the top and apron. After cutting and layering multiple pieces, I trimmed them flush with a router. I then wrapped the form in packing tape to prevent glue adhesion and bent thin mahogany strips around it using a resin glue (while wearing a respirator for safety). Using tons of clamps to clamp it to the form ensured a smooth, even curve without flat spots.

Once dry, I cleaned up the edges, marked the apron’s length, and cut it to size. Attaching the apron to the back piece required floating tenons and another round of clamping. A hand plane and a flexible sanding strip smoothed out any rough edges before final assembly.

Carving the Table Legs

After sketching the desired shape on a plywood template, I cut the curves on the bandsaw, refined them with the disk and spindle sanders, and finished by hand with a spoke shave.

A cloud-lift detail carved on the back edges added subtle elegance. To ensure uniformity, I used a spacer block while routing. For the pillowed effect on the front, I shaped the legs with a spokeshave, periodically comparing them to maintain symmetry. Dowels pinned the legs securely from behind, and I used slow-set epoxy for the final glue-up to ensure perfect alignment.

The Silver Leaf Gilding Process

Prepping the tabletop for silver leaf was a delicate affair. I filled the wood grain to prevent imperfections from showing through the ultra-thin silver leaf. To achieve an aged, well-traveled look, I stained the plywood with a mahogany colored stain and used pin-striping tape to mask off the silver-leaf area.

Applying the leaf required patience—I laid each sheet in random patterns to avoid a grid-like appearance and deliberately cracked some sections to let the wood peek through. A patina solution (made from potash) was carefully applied using crumpled tissue paper to create an etched, textured finish. After achieving the desired effect, I sealed everything with polyurethane.

Final Thoughts

This project was a labor of love, blending technical woodworking with artistic flair. From the elliptical precision of the tabletop to the hand-shaped curves of the legs, every step demanded attention to detail. The result? A stunning, one-of-a-kind piece that looks like it’s been cherished across decades.

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