Home » Episode » Design and Fabrication » Building a Scandinavian Round Table

Building a Scandinavian Round Table

Scandinavian or Midcentury? You Decide

When I set out to build this elegant cherry round table, there was some debate behind the scenes: Is it Scandinavian Modern or Midcentury Modern? The client, hailing from Sweden, but now needing custom furniture in Denver, CO, referred to it as Scandinavian design—so that’s the term I’m sticking with.

Prepping the Tabletop: Grain Flow and Glue-Up

The process began with prepping the cherry wood for the tabletop. After planing the wood to the right thickness, I took time to arrange the pieces for optimal grain flow, which is what makes custom furniture stand out as high quality. A careful glue-up ensured a seamless surface.

In my last video, I demonstrated how I built a simple, fully adjustable circle-cutting jig—which came in handy for cutting out the tabletop’s perfect round shape.

Creating the Pillowed Edge

To achieve the soft, pillowed edge, I used a large thumbnail router bit. Given its size, I made the cut in multiple passes, carefully shaping both the top and bottom edges.

A close inspection revealed slight ridges where the router bit stopped—these were gently blended with a sander. Hand-sanding ensured a flawless transition, feathering out any inconsistencies.

Designing the Legs: Sketching, Testing, and Refining

Unlike the tabletop, I didn’t have exact plans for the legs—just a vision in my mind. After marking guidelines for height and centerlines, I sketched various angles and curves until landing on a design I loved. I made a plywood template to ensure all legs would match. Getting the legs just right is not only important visually, but it also determines the right height for the dining table.

Straight cuts were made with a track saw, while the final curves came to life on the bandsaw. A spindle sander refined the shape, smoothing out any imperfections.

Overcoming Plywood Imperfections

Even high-grade plywood can be frustrating—voids threatened to disrupt the router’s bearing. To prevent this, I filled gaps with CA glue and sanded them flush.

After reassessing the leg angle, I adjusted the template, keeping the curve I liked but refining the slope. A fence and toggle clamps were added to the template for stability during routing.

Precision Joinery: Floating Tenons and Hand-Cut Half-Laps

Angled cuts required precision—initially done on a chop saw, but later refined at the table saw for tighter joints. Floating tenons were marked and mortised, with a clever scrap-wood jig holding pieces at their unique angles.

The cross braces required a half-lap joint—cut by hand for accuracy. After scribing with a marking knife and sawing kerfs, I chiseled out the waste, ensuring a perfect fit.

Final Shaping and Assembly

Before shaping the legs, I pre-drilled screw holes—much easier on a flat surface. To prevent the router bearing from catching in these holes, I temporarily plugged them with dowels.

A large round-over bit gave the legs their pillowed edges, while a tapered cut refined their silhouette. After the glue-up, a jack plane smoothed any misalignments at the joints.

The Finishing Touch:

Before final assembly, I applied multiple coats of satin polyurethane for protection. And for that extra touch—though most won’t see it—I hand-chiseled a refined curve where the legs meet under the table, just in case someone ends up admiring it from below.

The Final Verdict

After several adjustments, I’m thrilled with the result—a sleek, Scandinavian-inspired table with Midcentury undertones.



Shopping Cart