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Building a Custom Rustic Steel Dining Table Base

Today, I’m building a custom rustic steel dining table base, from welding and acid treatment to creating unique rust patinas with vinegar, and finishing with weighted concrete for stability

I just finished tack welding these frame pieces together, and now comes the tricky part. I need to be really careful as I weld this thing up – I don’t want to add too much heat and warp it out of plane. Since this is what’s going to support the glass top, it needs to stay reasonably flat. So I’m taking my time with it, welding one section, letting it cool down, then hitting the opposite side. Just working my way around methodically.

After getting the basic box welded up, I decided to build a trough for it to sit in. This will help prevent tipping and hold everything more securely in place. Then I’ll add a cap on top so you’re not just looking down inside the hollow box – just a nice rusty cap to finish it off.

The Rust Treatment Process

Once I had the steel box fully welded, I sprayed it down with muriatic acid. This stuff just eats right through all that mill scale, and honestly, I’ve found it way easier than trying to grind and buff everything off. Plus, it leaves a smoother finish. Since I’m working with acid, I made sure to use a respirator designed specifically for acid vapors – this is a step up from your typical organic vapor respirator you’d use for spraying lacquer. You really want something stronger that’ll capture those acid vapors.

With the box cleaned off, I started a series of chemical treatments. My main weapons here are vinegar and apple cider vinegar. The cool thing is that these two different types create different shades of rusty colors. Apple cider vinegar actually creates a darker red in the rust patterns. As I apply these, I’m using different spray pattern techniques – each one creates different rust patterns and final colors. I started with a really fine mist, then switched chemicals and did more of a direct spray shot pattern to create more defined areas. I keep changing it up so the finished piece has this modeling effect with different colors and patterns throughout.

Then I grabbed this dead tree carcass to cover the piece, weighing it down to press into the metal. This creates additional patterns and traps moisture so it doesn’t dry too quickly, giving the rust a real chance to bite into the metal. This is a natural rusting process, so there’s no guarantee what kind of colors or patterns you’ll get. It’s really just a matter of guiding it in the direction you want. I had a vision in my head of what I wanted, and I was trying to help it along. Of course, I wasn’t 100% satisfied at first, so I fussed around a bit more to get it closer to my vision.

The Delicate Dance

Working my way around the box was nerve-wracking. The trick is not to screw up what you just finished. I’ve had instances where things get too puddled up on top and run down a side I just completed, making weird streaks and ruining my hard work. So yeah, this was the tense part – trying not to mess it up while still getting cool patterns around the rest of the box.

To seal everything in and preserve my rusty artwork, I sprayed on a conversion varnish.

Adding Weight and Stability

One of the last steps was weighing the base. It’s pretty stable, but it can still tip fairly easily. Once the big piece of glass goes on there with the metal crossbar, someone could potentially push down hard on one side and tip it over. So I stuffed a dust collector bag inside to prevent any concrete from getting on the surface and screwing up my patina work. Then I just poured concrete in to fill it up.

The bag should also prevent the concrete from touching the inside of the box, which could possibly rust it from the inside out. Even though this is an indoor piece and that’s pretty unlikely, I wanted that extra insurance that my creation will last at least my lifetime, if not longer.

When mixing the concrete, I always put about half the water in first. That way, I don’t get any dry spots or clumps stuck to the bottom – it’s just easier to get it mixed thoroughly. Then I add the other half once I get it started, so I can determine how firm or loose I want the mix.

I gave it periodic shakes to spread the concrete out evenly inside, then left it open to dry before tucking the plastic down inside.

Now all that’s left is to take this custom furniture out to Colorado Springs and set up in the client’s house, and set that glass top on it.

 



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